01Layout
Put the swim platform on the lee side
Everyone wants a swim platform. Fewer people think about which side of the dock it lands on. Put it on the side sheltered from the prevailing wake and it stays usable on a busy Saturday. Put it on the open side and it becomes the place nobody sits after July.
02Surface
Concrete decking instead of wood
The single upgrade owners tell us they should have done sooner. Slip resistant when wet, cool enough to walk on barefoot, and it removes the annual staining and board replacement cycle entirely. Costs more up front and repays it in maintenance you never do.
03Structure
Design the roof around the boat you will own next
Boats get bigger. Clearance is measured from the water to the lowest truss, and raising a roof later costs far more than building it a foot higher now. If there is any chance of a bigger boat, build the headroom in at the start.
04Access
A wide gangway, not a narrow one
The ramp is where people carry coolers, kids, and gear. A four foot gangway with a proper handrail changes how the whole dock feels compared to a narrow one, especially for older family members and anyone going down it at dusk.
05Storage
Under-deck storage in the frame
Life jackets, ropes, tubes, and cleaning gear have to live somewhere, and the alternative is a plastic deck box that blows over. Building storage into the dock frame keeps the deck clear and the gear dry.
06Lighting
Lighting that points down, not out
Downward-facing deck and step lighting makes a dock genuinely safer at night without turning your waterfront into a stadium. It also keeps you on good terms with the neighbours, which matters more than people think on a cove.
07Layout
A dedicated sun deck above the slips
If the footprint allows it, an upper deck gives you the view without giving up slip space. It is the highest-impact addition we build in terms of how much the dock actually gets used.
08Protection
Wave attenuation on an exposed shoreline
If your dock sits on open water or across from a main channel, no amount of good building makes up for constant wake. Wave attenuation absorbs that energy instead of bouncing it back. It protects the dock, calms the swim area, and slows shoreline erosion.
How WaveBaffle works09Equipment
A boat lift in every slip you use all season
Hull out of the water means less growth, less staining, and no bottom cleaning. The dock has to be built to carry the load, so design it in rather than retrofitting. This is the upgrade with the clearest payback of anything on this list.
10Safety
Ladders on both ends, not just one
Cheap, and the thing people are most grateful for. Swimmers drift. A second ladder means nobody has to swim the length of the dock to get out.
11Hardware
Oversized cleats, properly backed
Undersized and under-anchored cleats are the most common failure we find on inspection. They are also among the cheapest things to get right. Size them for the boat you actually own and back them into the frame, not just the deck.
12Layout
Leave room to walk around the boat
A slip sized with six inches to spare looks efficient on paper and is miserable in practice. Clearance on both sides means you can board, fend off, wash, and work on the boat without gymnastics.
13Design
Match the dock to the house, not to a catalogue
Roof pitch, colour, and materials that echo the house make a dock read as part of the property rather than something parked in front of it. It costs nothing extra at the design stage and it is the difference buyers notice.
14Structure
Plan the anchor layout before the deck layout
Cables, stiff arms, and concrete piers decide where a floating dock can actually sit and how it behaves when the lake moves. Getting that right first is unglamorous and it is what keeps the pretty parts where you put them.